Transmission Repair Blogs & Tips

Researchers at Northwestern University found that women are often, but not always, charged more than men for auto repairs. But they’re more effective at negotiating a better deal. According to the study, “women are quoted higher prices than men when callers signal that they are uninformed about market prices.” On the other hand, the researchers also found that “gender differences disappear when callers mention an expected price for the repair.” Thus, savvy shoppers who make it clear that they’re aware of an appropriate charge for a given service get quoted a better price, regardless of gender. But the playing field becomes uneven when either men or women appear unaware of the expected cost. In those cases, it may be that repair shop employees — about 85 percent of whom are men — assume that women are less informed about the going rate and so quote higher prices. The study, Repairing the Damage: The Effect of Price Expectations on Auto-Repair Price Quotes, was conducted by Meghan Busse, associate professor of management and strategy, and her team from Northwestern’s Kellogg School of Management during the summer and fall of 2012. In the first part of the study, the researchers had men and women call repair shops in several parts of the country to request a quote for replacing a radiator on a six-cylinder 2003 Toyota Camry LE. The shops chosen were a mix of independent operations and those affiliated with national or regional chains. Based on existing data, the callers knew the average price for such a repair on this make and model was $365. Some callers stated that amount up front, while others professed no knowledge of an expected price. Those who stated a price, whether men or women, received quotes that were $25 to $35 lower than callers who just asked for the shop’s standard charge. However, among those who did not state a price up front, women got quotes that were $13 higher than those received by men. The second part of the study looked at the effectiveness of attempting to negotiate lower prices. For this experiment, callers who received a higher quote than $365 were asked to see if the shop could be induced to match that reference price. The researchers found that women were able to get price concessions 35 percent of the time, compared to 25 percent for men. The study concludes: “There is a double benefit to revealing a market-based price expectation: doing so not only leads on average to a lower initial price quote, it also leads to a higher probability of obtaining a match, should the initial quote exceed the market-based expected price. Together these suggest that a woman in this context has a distinct advantage in revealing good price knowledge early on.” Male or female, it pays to make sure the repair shop knows you’ve done your homework. Just the Facts: A recent study found that women are often, but not always, charged more than men for auto repairs. Both men and women get lower repair quotes when they make it clear that they know the going rate for a repair. According to the study, women are more effective at negotiating a better price.

Transmission problems fall into two very similar categories: Won’t go. Won’t go smoothly These two groups of problems are caused by the same faults in your transmission, so whichever your car is doing, the following applies. Is your fluid level correct? It’s important to check your transmission fluid at least twice a year. Not only can a low fluid level cause your car to shift poorly, it can eventually lead to transmission damage, and a costly repair. If your car seems to be losing fluid on a regular basis, you may have a leak. Is your transmission leaking? Checking for leaks isn’t as trying as it may seem. The transmission is a closed system, so there are only a few places that can spring a leak. Unless it’s been changed to a non-dyed fluid, your car will have red transmission fluid. Here are a few places to check for leaks: At the filler tube base. At the drain hole underneath the transmission. Between the transmission and the engine. At the selector shaft – the rod that connects your gear shift to the transmission. Speed sensor mounting point. This will either be your cable screwing into the transmission housing or an electronic sensor bolted to the housing. The radiator. If your car has a transmission cooler, it’s possible that a leak will cause transmission fluid to leak into the radiator fluid. They don’t mix well, so you’ll see it floating around in there. Is your filter clogged? Your transmission’s filter is vital to its performance. If you haven’t replaced your filter in a while (or ever for a lot of us), be sure to do this before you start talking about rebuilds or replacements. Most transmission problems can’t be fixed by the average do-it-yourselfer. There are just too many specialized tools and pieces of equipment you’ll need, and buying this expensive gear just to screw up your first three tries at fixing the thing just doesn’t make too much sense. Now that you’re in front of the firing squad, it’s time to drop some knowledge on your fix-it guy. Tell him what the car’s doing. Then tell him what you found out when you inspected the transmission. If there’s a leak, let him know where and how much is leaking.

There is no engine component more complex and essential than a car’s transmission. Transmissions are responsible for shifting gears (automatically or manually) to dynamically change the speed-torque ratio in order to deliver power to the wheels in an efficient manner based on the speed of the vehicle. The reason for this is that an engine outputs a high rotational speed which cannot be used for low speeds or starting. Using gear ratios, a transmission reduces the rotational speed and increases the torque (or “power” to the wheels) in the process. Vehicles are usually described as 5 or 6 “speed,” meaning they have that many gear ratios to allow the vehicle to travel at the full range of speeds required and to make use of the engine’s output power as efficiently as possible. Due to their complexity, constant use and function within a vehicle’s operation, transmissions experience a lot of wear and tear. Add to this the fact that many owners forget to check and change the fluid on a regular basis and it’s easy to understand why so many people have transmission problems. Rebuild, Repair, and Replace: The Average Costs Transmission replacement is one of the most expensive jobs done by any mechanic, ranging on average from $1,800 to $3,500. Rebuilds can cost just as much as a replacement, depending on the extent of the damage. The upper end of the range is typically for the replacement of a high end vehicle’s transmission or a complete rebuild after a major mechanical failure. Basic repair jobs are on the lower side, from $1,000 to $2,000. For example, fixing a manual transmission often only requires a new clutch, a $1,000-$1,500 job. Factors that Affect the Cost The cost of transmission repair varies widely based on a number of factors, the most important of which is the type and extent of the repairs being performed by the mechanic. If the transmission needs to be completely replaced or rebuilt, drivers can expect to pay several thousand dollars for parts and skilled labor, while a few minor repairs and a fluid change will only be a couple hundred dollars. It also depends on the make and model of the vehicle, with domestic/standard models costing quite a bit less than high-end or imported vehicles such as BMW, Mercedes and Volkswagen. Extent of the damage. What the car has been through can also affect the price as newer cars that have been well maintained will cost less than those that have been through tough times. Considerably older or rarer cars are harder to find parts for, which also increases the cost. Manual transmissions cost less to repair/replace than automatic transmissions. Some shops charge higher prices than others for the same work (due to marketing, location, reputation, etc.) Finally, the driver’s location will contribute a great deal to the overall cost of the procedure. Areas with higher costs of living, higher demand of services and/or lower availability of skilled technicians will charge higher labor costs, escalating the overall price. As mentioned previously, when deciding whether to rebuild or replace a transmission it is important to know that either option can be more cost effective, depending on how complex and extensive the issues are (it can take a long time to troubleshoot and repair some problems, in which case a replacement would save you money). Making this decision is difficult for the average consumer, which is why it’s so important to find a trustworthy mechanic. Symptoms of a Problem There are a number of symptoms of a damaged or worn out transmission to watch for, some of which are listed below. Many problems can be solved/avoided by regularly changing a car’s transmission fluid or getting the transmission flushed on a regular basis as recommended by the owner’s manual (recommendations are typically between every 30-50,000 miles). A single mechanical failure can cause the car’s engine to shut down and disable it entirely, so it is important to watch for these signs and get your car inspected at the first sign of trouble. Transmission is slipping between gears while driving or popping back to neutral Unusual grinding/clunking/humming noises – especially when in neutral Fluid smells like it is burned Clutch is dragging – clutch stays engaged and causes grinding noises when trying to shift Grinding or thumping when gear changes instead of smooth transitions Lag/delay between gear changes and/or higher than normal RPMs for a given speed or gear change In the event that a transmission does begin to fail in some way (or fails completely), mechanics will often recommend a replacement, a rebuilding process, or other smaller repairs to ensure that the car will function properly and reliably. Each type of repair has different procedures and costs associated with it. A full transmission replacement is one of the most expensive procedures a mechanic can perform on a vehicle. The cost of the other option – getting a transmission rebuilt – can be significantly less if the problem(s) can be fixed by simple procedures that deal with easy-to-replace parts. However, it can also cost just as much or more than replacement in cases when there are major issues that need to be addressed. It all depends on how comprehensive the repairs are: from installing a few new parts to a complete overhaul. Rebuilding involves removing the transmission, opening the case, inspecting and cleaning all the components and replacing the “soft” parts that are damaged or worn out. Some of these parts include seals, O-rings, bands, gaskets, valves, clutch components and filters. Drums, shafts, pumps, converters, the casing and gears are referred to as the “hard parts” and rarely break because they are much more durable and rarely break. This process takes no more than 3 days in most cases. If problems are caught early on, minor repairs are far more budget-friendly as they do not require complete removal/disassembling or replacement of “hard” parts, though the costs vary depending on the make and model of the vehicle and several other factors discussed below. When it’s time to get a car’s transmission fixed, there are a few things to keep in mind in order to ensure high value, great work, and long-lasting results. The Process: How a Transmission is Rebuilt The process of rebuilding a transmission is rather lengthy and labor-intensive. Mechanics must disassemble the transmission to look for problems and replace the parts that are causing it to not function properly. Through this process, the part(s) causing the mechanical failure are eventually found and replaced instead of having to install a brand new transmission. Generally speaking, there are three different aspects that must be checked before any transmission rebuild. The first is probably the easiest, and definitely the most affordable: changing the transmission fluid. The cause of many problems is low or dirty transmission fluid, which can also cause the vehicle’s fuel economy decrease. This causes shifting to become noticeably “stickier” and, in some cases, the car will change gears and stay stuck in neutral. This “fix” often costs less than $100, though many vehicle owners find that they can do it themselves. Next, the mechanic checks the vehicle’s computer system that controls automatic shifting (for automatics). Transmission slipping and hard shifts can actually be caused by the computer if it is not reading the RPM correctly. Sensors can be easily replaced without disassembling a transmission, so this is the second easiest (and cheapest) repair that can fix the problem(s). After a number of diagnostic tests including test driving the vehicle and a comprehensive inspection, the technician will remove the transmission from the vehicle and disassemble it. Each part is inspected, cleaned and replaced if necessary (especially if it is outdated). Parts such as seals and gaskets are replaced anyway. The electrical system is tested and any required repairs are made. If the problem was found and none of the “hard” components require attention, the unit is assembled and reinstalled into the engine. After another test drive to ensure everything is working properly, the car is returned to its owner. Check if the Warranty is Still Valid This might seem obvious to some, but if your vehicle is still relatively new/low mileage you should call the dealership or check the owner’s manual to see if your transmission’s problem is still covered by your powertrain warranty before calling a mechanic. A typical powertrain warranty is for 10 years or 100,000 miles (whichever comes first), but they vary widely depending on the manufacturer and can range anywhere from 4-10 years and 50,000-100,000 miles. The following components are typically covered: transmission case and all internal parts, torque converter, converter housing, automatic control module, transfer case and all internal parts, seals, gaskets. A warranty will cover the cost of repairs (parts and labor) if the damage was caused by poor workmanship or a manufacturer defect. However, if the vehicle’s maintenance schedule was not followed then the warranty might be void and not be honored. Parts that experience significant wear-and-tear and are expected to be replaced at regular intervals such as CV joints and boots and clutches are excluded from most warranties. Certain components may or may not be covered depending upon the manufacturer of your vehicle. Refer to your owner’s manual for a complete list of what is and is not covered. Find the Right Repair Shop Due to their complexity and how difficult they are to service, choosing the right mechanic to handle your transmission can make the difference between a long-lasting repair and one of questionable quality. As with any car maintenance, it’s best to get a quote from a certified technician or repair center before making any assumptions. In fact, it’s generally a good idea to gather multiple quotes and compare prices in order to make a sound decision based on quality and value. Do some research both online and locally to find highly rated shops that have solid reputations. The cheapest service is not always the best option as some repair shops offer unrealistically low prices in order to get you into their shop so they can add hidden/additional fees onto the final price. Consider getting friends or family to recommend a mechanic who repaired a transmission for them and did quality work. The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence has a shop locator for finding a certified mechanic. The Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association (ATRA) has a similar function for finding a shop that follows ATRA’s Code of Ethics. Reputable shops offer a warranties on their services in order to ensure customers’ peace of mind. In fact, a warranty should be the number one thing that drivers look for when choosing a repair shop. Due to the wide range and severity of problems that can occur and the variance of costs involved, it is advised to get mechanics to explain exactly what is wrong with your transmission and what has to be done to fix it. They should also be able to give you a clear estimate as to what the price will be once they have done basic diagnostic tests. Finally, drivers should pay attention to the appearance of the repair shop itself. Good repair shops are clean, inviting, and customer-centered. Less attractive options are dirty, poorly operated, and not as focused on the customers they’re supposed to be serving. With careful attention to certifications, warranties, and shop conditions, it’s easy to find a low-cost, high-value transmission repair shop that can get the job done right.

Avoid costly transmission repairs. A-Team Transmissions’ 10 tips for keeping your automatic transmission in good condition Depending on the type of vehicle you drive and its age, transmission repairs can be costly. Sometimes it’s impossible to avoid having a transmission repair specialist service your vehicle particularly if you’re subjected to a total breakdown. But there are things you can do to extend the life of your automatic transmission and prevent transmission failure. Read our checklist of top 10 transmission maintenance tips: 1. Check your transmission fluid periodically. On many cars, light trucks, and SUVs, checking the transmission fluid is as easy as checking the oil: with the engine idling, pull out the dipstick, wipe it off, insert it again, wait, then pull it out to get an accurate reading. If the fluid level is low, you may have a leak. The fluid itself should be a bright red colour, clear, and it should smell sweet. If it’s murky, dark coloured, or smells like rotting fish take it to a transmission repair specialist to look things over. 2. Use the right type of transmission fluid. Always consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual to determine what type of transmission fluid you should use. If after doing so you’re still not sure, pop in to a Mister Transmission and ask a professional. 3. Have your engine’s cooling system serviced. Your vehicle’s cooling system helps prevent the engine from overheating. But did you know it also ensures the transmission fluid pumping through the gearbox is cooled too? It’s more likely you’ll need a transmission repair before your engine completely overheats. Make sure your cooling system is in optimal condition. 4. Get your transmission flushed regularly. Changing the transmission fluid in your car is best left to a professional. Consult your car’s owner’s manual, but in general, get your vehicle’s transmission flushed once a year. How long the transmission fluid in your car will last depends on the vehicle’s operating temperature and how much driving you do. 5. Don’t change gears while your car is moving. Bring your vehicle to a complete stop before changing gears from ‘drive’ to ‘reverse’ or vice-versa. Failing to do so simply puts strain on your transmission and after awhile it can lead to a serious problem. 6. Let your car warm up before you drive. Who among us has hopped into the driver’s seat, started the engine, put the car in drive and motored away? (Full disclosure: I’m as guilty as you are) Always allow your engine a few minutes to warm up before you begin to drive, especially during the winter months. 7. Don’t drive on a spare tire for an extended period of time. Mismatched tire sizes, or driving with a small spare tire over a long period of time is a no-no. Not only will it do damage to other parts of your vehicle such as ruin the wheel alignment, after a while it puts unnecessary strain on the transmission. 8. Regularly change the transmission filter. That’s right: your car’s automatic transmission may have a filter, and it needs to be changed from time to time. Whether or not you’re driving a car that has a transmission filter depends entirely on the make and model. Most newer vehicles don’t have a transmission filter but those that do should be changed each time you get your transmission flushed. 9. Avoid using your vehicle for towing. Using your car to tow heavy loads, particularly in hot temperatures, can cause the transmission fluid to oxidize or burn, and in turn, do a lot of damage to the transmission. 10. Have your transmission inspected annually. Having a certified transmission repair specialist conduct a diagnostic check of your transmission for leaks and other abnormalities at least once a year, as well as checking the transmission fluid’s level, colour, and smell periodically is smart preventative maintenance. If you are in the greater Columbus area, or driving on driving through and are experiencing transmission troubles or suspect you are, call us now at (614) 848-8484 , or visit us at either of our locations. Stranded roadside because of a breakdown? Our tow trucks are standing by. Our certified transmission repair specialists will get your car back on the road again quickly.

Researchers at Northwestern University found that women are often, but not always, charged more than men for auto repairs. But they’re more effective at negotiating a better deal. According to the study, “women are quoted higher prices than men when callers signal that they are uninformed about market prices.” On the other hand, the researchers also found that “gender differences disappear when callers mention an expected price for the repair.” Thus, savvy shoppers who make it clear that they’re aware of an appropriate charge for a given service get quoted a better price, regardless of gender. But the playing field becomes uneven when either men or women appear unaware of the expected cost. In those cases, it may be that repair shop employees — about 85 percent of whom are men — assume that women are less informed about the going rate and so quote higher prices. The study, Repairing the Damage: The Effect of Price Expectations on Auto-Repair Price Quotes, was conducted by Meghan Busse, associate professor of management and strategy, and her team from Northwestern’s Kellogg School of Management during the summer and fall of 2012. In the first part of the study, the researchers had men and women call repair shops in several parts of the country to request a quote for replacing a radiator on a six-cylinder 2003 Toyota Camry LE. The shops chosen were a mix of independent operations and those affiliated with national or regional chains. Based on existing data, the callers knew the average price for such a repair on this make and model was $365. Some callers stated that amount up front, while others professed no knowledge of an expected price. Those who stated a price, whether men or women, received quotes that were $25 to $35 lower than callers who just asked for the shop’s standard charge. However, among those who did not state a price up front, women got quotes that were $13 higher than those received by men. The second part of the study looked at the effectiveness of attempting to negotiate lower prices. For this experiment, callers who received a higher quote than $365 were asked to see if the shop could be induced to match that reference price. The researchers found that women were able to get price concessions 35 percent of the time, compared to 25 percent for men. The study concludes: “There is a double benefit to revealing a market-based price expectation: doing so not only leads on average to a lower initial price quote, it also leads to a higher probability of obtaining a match, should the initial quote exceed the market-based expected price. Together these suggest that a woman in this context has a distinct advantage in revealing good price knowledge early on.” Male or female, it pays to make sure the repair shop knows you’ve done your homework. Just the Facts: A recent study found that women are often, but not always, charged more than men for auto repairs. Both men and women get lower repair quotes when they make it clear that they know the going rate for a repair. According to the study, women are more effective at negotiating a better price.

A number of symptoms can indicate a problem with a transmission, including grinding in gear changes, excessive gear noise, difficulty shifting or a burnt smell from the fluid. Check to see if a transmission is dealing with excessive friction with help from an auto mechanic in this free video on troubleshooting car problems.

Rebuild, Repair, and Replace: The Average Costs Transmission replacement is one of the most expensive jobs done by any mechanic, ranging on average from $1,800 to $3,500. Rebuilds can cost just as much as a replacement, depending on the extent of the damage. The upper end of the range is typically for the replacement of a high end vehicle’s transmission or a complete rebuild after a major mechanical failure. Basic repair jobs are on the lower side, from $1,000 to $2,000. For example, fixing a manual transmission often only requires a new clutch, a $1,000-$1,500 job. Two ways you can save some money are: buying a used/remanufactured transmission instead of a new one and rebuilding the transmission yourself. These topics are outside the scope of this article and will be covered in a future post. Factors that Affect the Cost The cost of transmission repair varies widely based on a number of factors, the most important of which is the type and extent of the repairs being performed by the mechanic. If the transmission needs to be completely replaced or rebuilt, drivers can expect to pay several thousand dollars for parts and skilled labor, while a few minor repairs and a fluid change will only be a couple hundred dollars.  It also depends on the make and model of the vehicle, with domestic/standard models costing quite a bit less than high-end or imported vehicles such as BMW, Mercedes and Volkswagen. Extent of the damage. What the car has been through can also affect the price as newer cars that have been well maintained will cost less than those that have been through tough times. Considerably older or rarer cars are harder to find parts for, which also increases the cost. Manual transmissions cost less to repair/replace than automatic transmissions. Some shops charge higher prices than others for the same work (due to marketing, location, reputation, etc.) Finally, the driver’s location will contribute a great deal to the overall cost of the procedure. Areas with higher costs of living, higher demand of services and/or lower availability of skilled technicians will charge higher labor costs, escalating the overall price. As mentioned previously, when deciding whether to rebuild or replace a transmission it is important to know that either option can be more cost effective, depending on how complex and extensive the issues are (it can take a long time to troubleshoot and repair some problems, in which case a replacement would save you money). Making this decision is difficult for the average consumer, which is why it’s so important to… Find the Right Repair Shop Due to their complexity and how difficult they are to service, choosing the right mechanic to handle your transmission can make the difference between a long-lasting repair and one of questionable quality. As with any car maintenance, it’s best to get a quote from a certified technician or repair center before making an assumptions. In fact, it’s generally a good idea to gather multiple quotes and compare prices in order to make a sound decision based on quality and value. Do some research both online and locally and to find highly rated shops that have solid reputations. The cheapest service is not always the best option as some repair shops offer unrealistically low prices in order to get you into their shop so they can add hidden/additional fees onto the final price. Consider getting friends or family to recommend a mechanic who repaired a transmission for them and did quality work. The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence has a shop locator for finding a certified mechanic. The Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association (ATRA) has a similar function for finding a shop that follows ATRA’s Code of Ethics. Reputable shops offer a warranties on their services in order to ensure customers’ peace of mind. In fact, a warranty should be the number one thing that drivers look for when choosing a repair shop. Due to the wide range and severity of problems that can occur and the variance of costs involved, it is advised to get mechanics to explain exactly what is wrong with your transmission and what has to be done to fix it. They should also be able to give you a clear estimate as to what the price will be once they have done basic diagnostic tests. Finally, drivers should pay attention to the appearance of the repair shop itself. Good repair shops are clean, inviting, and customer-centered. Less attractive options are dirty, poorly operated, and not as focused on the customers they’re supposed to be serving. With careful attention to certifications, warranties, and shop conditions, it’s easy to find a low-cost, high-value transmission repair shop that can get the job done right. – See more at: http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/#cost

Your engine’s timing belt is the most important maintenance item in your car. What happens when this component gives up the ghost, and how hard is it to fix by yourself? What Is A Timing Belt? A timing belt is the ribbed belt that is placed in a specific configuration along one side of your engine to keep the crank and camshafts timed properly. Essentially, it keeps the top half of the engine (cylinder head, valves) in sync with the bottom half (crankcase, pistons). Does My Car Have A Timing Belt? If you have an older car from the 90s and below, odds are you have a timing belt. Some new car manufacturers, such as Audi, still use timing belts in their engine designs, but for longevity, many manufacturers have switched to metal timing chains that in theory last for the life of the engine. Our advice would be to refer to your owner’s manual and look up the maintenance schedule. If you don’t have one, Google it. If you don’t see a timing belt service listed, you have a timing chain. When Should I Change My Timing Belt? Manufacturers employ various schedules and measures for timing belt replacement, but the rule of thumb is 60,000 miles, or 5 years, whichever comes first. Is My Engine Safe If My Timing Belt Snaps? Well, that depends. There are two types of engine timing configurations: interference, and non-interference. An interference type engine means that the valve’s stroke and piston’s stroke take up the same space in the cylinder, so the timing belt essentially keeps them from smashing into each other, since they do it at different times. If the timing belt snaps, they run into each other, causing bent valves (most common), cylinder head or camshaft damage, and possibly piston and cylinder wall damage. While it is possible that no damage could occur from a snapped belt on an interference engine, such a case is unlikely. In a non-interference engine, the pistons and valves don’t occupy the same space, so if the timing belt snaps, no valve or cylinder damage occurs. You just pop a new belt on, and the engine should theoretically drive normally. How Much Does It Cost To Change My Timing Belt? Timing belt services can be costly on some cars, ranging into the thousands of dollars. A typical job would be around $450. If you do it yourself on a car that is relatively forgiving, the parts cost for good quality components would be around $250 or less, so taking a day and doing it yourself would be well worth it. How Do I Change My Timing Belt? (Note: The procedure listed here was performed on a 1993 Lexus ES300 V6, which is a non-interference engine. The engine is arranged in a front wheel drive, transverse configuration, which is typical for many types of cars with timing belts of the era. The instructions will be similar on nearly any front wheel drive car with a timing belt. As always, exercise extreme caution when working on a car. If you’re not confident in your mechanical abilities, consult a professional.) 1: Acquire Tools The tools typically used are as follows: 3/8″ Ratchet 1/2″ Ratchet 1/2″ Breaker Bar 3/8″ Assorted extensions 3/8″ Sockets, assorted 1/2″ Sockets, Assorted Open-ended wrenches, assorted Torx sockets, assorted (Used mainly on German and some American cars) Hex sockets, assorted (Used mainly on German and some American cars) Reverse Torx sockets, assorted (Used mainly on German and some American cars) Hydraulic Jack Jack Stands Pry Bar 3-Prong Pulley Puller Screwdriver Set Torque Wrench Razor Blades Wire Brush Gloves WD-40 Oil Pan 2: Get Timing Belt/Accessories As a timing belt is such an integral part, and the maintenance interval is once every half decade, it makes sense not to cheap out on quality. We recommend Gates belts, as they exceed OEM quality and are reasonably priced. Along with the belt, you’ll need the timing belt tensioner, pulleys, and water pump. Go with Koyo (if you can) for the pulleys, and Aisin makes great water pumps if you can find them for your model. As a general rule, you get what you pay for. The reason to replace everything else is because since you’ll have everything exposed, it’s much easier to replace worn components on their way out to avoid problems in the future. 3: Loosen Front Lug Nuts On Wheels (Front Wheel Drive Car Only) In order to get the best purchase on the front lug nuts, engage the parking/emergency brake (if none is available/not working, put a brick behind the back wheel) put your 1/2″ breaker bar on the appropriate socket size (usually 17-21mm) and turn counter-clockwise with the car on the ground. Remember, you’re loosening, NOT removing. Get the lugs loose enough that you’ll be able to take them off with a regular ratchet. 4: Raise Car Put the hydraulic jack underneath either the car’s frame rail or factory jacking points on the side of the car. These can usually be seen as the dimpled pieces of protruding metal on the bottom of the car. Some German cars have black rubber pads that serve as the jacking points. Place jack stands underneath the car, rest car on jack stands, making sure that its weight cannot shift. You can now remove the front wheels. 5: Loosen Crank Pulley Bolt The crank pulley is the main pulley at the bottom of the engine. It needs to be removed in order to change the timing belt. However, it’s not easy if you only have hand tools, since the torque on this bolt is often pretty extreme. If you have an air-powered impact gun, you can make short work of this, but most people don’t have access to an air compressor, so here’s a video with a tip on how to remove that pesky crank bolt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg (Note: make sure that your engine turns clockwise. If it turns counter clockwise, this method will not work.) After this, you can disconnect the negative battery terminal. 6: Remove Accessory Belts Some car have auto-tensioners that you need a ratchet to de-tension, and some cars have a tensioner and lock nut that you can adjust yourself using a socket. This car had an adjuster on the alternator. Simply loosen whatever is giving tension to the belt(s) and remove the accessory belts. 7: Remove Crank Pulley The crank pulley, in theory, is supposed to slide right off the crank. This does not always happen, as years of corrosion, and heat cycles have all but welded the pulley onto the crank. Do not pry on the pulley, as this can introduce cracks into the pulley, or worse – the crank. What you need is a 3-pronged pulley puller, grab the pulley from the outside, and use a socket to create tension in the center, allowing the pulley to be pulled out of its space safely. 8: Remove Timing Covers The timing covers are usually held on with 10mm bolts. Take off the top ones first, then the bottom, near where the crank pulley used to be. Some cars may have components in the way of removing the top timing covers, such as brackets and engine mounts. Be methodical and remove everything in the surrounding area to make room, and if removing engine mounts, be sure to support the engine from the bottom with your hydraulic jack. Don’t try to force things. If you can get your hands on the factory service manual for your car, it’ll be your best friend through this procedure. 9: Place The Engine at Top Dead Center Top Dead Center is the measure at which the timing marks on the crank and cams are aligned. It is the point in the stroke where the #1 cylinder has reached the absolute top of its stroke. At this point, the camshaft sprockets will align with the marks on engine, and the crank sprocket will align with the marks on the engine. Some engines, like GM interference DOHC V6s, will require special tools keep the cams from moving, so consult with a factory service manual if you can. Another way you can check if you’re in the right ballpark is to remove the spark plug on the number 1 cylinder and put something long (screwdriver or socket extension) in the chamber and turn the crank pulley with the breaker bar and see where the top of the cylinder’s stroke is. 10: Remove Timing Belt Tensioner and Timing Belt Now that the cam and crank are timed correctly, You can take off the timing belt tensioner. The one on the Lexus was held on by 2 12mm bolts. Some are held on by a Hex bolt or single 14mm -17mm socket, and others are hydraulic tensioners that operate on oil pressure. You can now remove the timing belt. Ours snapped while trying to make adjustments, but even if you have an interference engine, you can’t do much damage just working on it, damage will only likely occur when the engine is running. 11: Remove Pulleys and Water Pump The Water Pump on the Lexus was way past serviceable, and it needed replacement, as it was leaking badly. In order to remove the water pump, make sure to drain at least the top half of the engine by draining the radiator from the bottom. Be sure to have a catch pan to get any coolant spillage. The pump comes out with a series of bolts, usually 12-14mm in size. If it doesn’t want to come out with no bolts connected, give it a whack with a rubber mallet or small hammer. The pulley removal is self-explanatory, simply remove their inner bolts and they come out easily. 12: Clean Up, Install Water Pump, Pulleys Remove as much old gasket material as possible with a combination of razor blades and soft metal wire brushes. Then put your new water pump gasket on, with a light layer of high-temp gasket sealant. This is extra protection against casting imperfections. I like to let the gasket material set and become less tacky, that way it forms a better seal against any oils or fluids that may have been left on the surface of the engine. 13: Install Timing Belt The new timing belt has marks that correspond with the marks on the cam and crank sprockets. Double and triple check their orientation. Don’t worry about there being slack in the new belt. 14: Install Timing Belt Tensioner Adjust it until you feel no slack in the belt and tighten to spec (refer to factory service manual if you have one). Hydraulic tensioners need no adjustment. Ours was simply put place with 2 12mm bolts. When everything is tight, rotate the crank pulley a few rotations and see if the marks on the cam and crank line up properly on every revolution. Don’t worry about lining up the marks on the belt after a few revolutions. The important part is that the crank and cam are in their correct positions. 15: Install Timing Covers and Crank Pulley Torque the Crank Pulley with the torque wrench, most cars require a torque rating of at least 100 ft-lbs. 16: Install and Tension Accessory Belts As a rule, tension the accessory belts to the point where they can only deflect 90 degrees between pulleys. On this car, I measured deflection between the A/C compressor and crank pulley and tightened the tensioner until I couldn’t deflect the belt past 90 degrees. 17: Refill The Cooling System As you drained the radiator when you replaced the water pump, you’ll need fresh coolant. Pour a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water it in the radiator until you see the coolant at the top of the radiator. Then Fill the expansion tank/overflow tank to the appropriate cold fill line, reconnect the negative battery terminal, and start the car. Put the heater on full and get the car up to operating temperature. This should get the air out of the system. Keep an eye on the coolant level for the next few days, adding when necessary. 18: Install Wheels Put back your wheels and lower the car. Job done!